The second in the much anticipated Sewing Basics series! Thank-you so much for all your positive comments in the last one - I’m really glad some of you found it useful! Originally, I was intending to write this post on sewing patterns (next in the series I promise!), but I thought it was more important that I should first dedicate a short post to knowing what your measurements are. The information is more specific to dressmakers, but equally, for anything you’re planning on sewing, measurements are fairly key!

credit: iamsin

Why do I need to know my measurements?

One of the beauties of making your own clothes is that you can make them pretty much exactly how you imagine them. More specifically, you can tailor make them to fit you perfectly. In doing so, you will instantly look 100x better in said clothing item and the end result will look more professional (some of you may like that home-made look of items, but I’m more inclined toward a polished finish… personal preference of course) which will hopefully mean you feel better, more confident and proud of your finished creation.

It’s tempting when you first get a sewing pattern to just go straight for the size you wear in the shops. But this will not work! Pattern sizes are smaller than so called “standard” sizes so if you do this, whatever you spend that time and effort making will not fit you!

Pretty much everyone feels slightly upset when they get a sewing pattern for the first time and realise they have to cut out a much bigger size just to get it to fit right. Just remember: there is no such thing as a “standard size”. Even from shop to shop, sizes vary. We all come in different shapes and no one person is the perfect size. But good fitting clothes give the illusion of being a perfect size

Where do I need to measure?

The tip my dressmaking teacher gave me was: follow your bust measurement. This is just because it’s easier to take something in than let it out and the bust area is a tricky spot to take out. Along with your bust measurement, most commercial patterns list the waist, hips and back measurements. These are important, but are of secondary consideration when cutting out your pattern pieces.

Scan from Designing Patterns: A fresh approach to pattern cutting

I bought this book from a charity shop thinking it’d be useful for me in the future. The book lists all the possible measurements you may need. Probably more useful to those super serious types, as most people won’t need to know all of them. For that reason, I shall only list the real essentials you’ll need to measure and if you need any other places, you can refer to the diagram:

1. Bust - around the fullest part, make sure the measuring tape does not fall down at the back whilst taking this measurement
2. Waist - where the natural waistline falls
3. Hips - around the fullest part of hips (usually around your bum) about 20cm/8 inches from the waist.
5. Back length - from the nape (back) of neck to the waist
6. Front length - from the base of throat to the waist
21. Skirt length - from the waist to the desired length of skirt, this will change depending on how long you want the skirt
23. Inside leg - from the top of the inner leg to the ankle (for trousers)
24. Outside leg - from waist, over the hips to the ankle (again for trousers)
You may also need to know your arm measurements if you’re planning on putting in sleeves.

If you use commercial patterns (which I assume we are planning on doing… I’ll detail this more in the next article of course), the measurements are already taken into account. The only reason I mention finding out what your own unique measurements are, is that then you can adapt the pattern/clothes to fit you specifically, ergo you get that perfect fit. Altering may well be something you do when you’ve got a bit more experience, but it’s something to think about nonetheless.

credit: flickr - fitting patterns 1921

Top tips for dress measurements

• Take the measurements close to the body, but not really tight against it
• If possible, rope a friend into helping you out - it’s much easier to measure someone else than it is yourself!
• Ideally, just measure over the underwear you’ll wear with the garment. For the sake of modesty though (especially if you’ve roped said friend into doing it) you could wear a t-shirt & leggings. Just no thick or heavy-weight fabrics because it’ll give you an inaccurate measurement
• Most commercial patterns list measurements in both inches and centimetres. It may be worth knowing your measurements in both, just in case they didn’t feature one of them (for example, vintage patterns may not have metric)

So after what has been a fair bit of waffle on my part, I’ll just sum up by basically saying: GET TO KNOW WHAT YOUR MEASUREMENTS ARE! The last thing any of us wants when we make something is for it not to fit us. Especially if we’ve taken a bit of time out to make it. Besides, not only are they beneficial to know when making your own stuff, but they come in handy whilst shopping too (vintage clothing especially)!