More often than not, I live in a little bubble of craft and forget other people may not be able to sew. Following my TiLT post and the few comments in response to my mentioning a dressmaking class (which I still highly recommend attending if possible), I thought I’d go ahead & do a small series of posts which have been lurking in my head – sewing basics. The premise is that I’ll sort of run down a few things that you may need to know to get you started. Hopefully it’ll help break things down a little bit and maybe inspire you to have a go. First off, I’ll focus on the basket & equipment…

photo by thisisloveforever

NB: This post is VERY long, so you may want to grab a cup of tea first!

The essentials

Exactly what it says on the tin, these are what I deem to be the absolute & essential tools you’ll need to begin.

Pins

Pins, as simple as the use is, come in an array of different shapes & sizes. It really is quite mind-boggling how many varieties you can get. There are:

• Plastic or glass head pins – general purpose type pins, they have a little head at the end so you can spot them easily
• Quilters pins – these are longer in length so they can hold multiple layers of fabric
• Dressmakers pins – usually steel pins, they don’t have a large head, but are a useful alternative to plastic/glass head pins
• Sequin & bead pins – these are very short in length and are used (as the name suggests) to keep sequins or beads in the right place
• Safety pins -the one most of us will be familiar with! They have a end which encases the sharp point of the pin.

I’ve probably missed a few there, but as you can tell, there are many types of pin! Each has a slightly different purpose and I suspect you are thinking “well, which should I chose?”. If you’re thinking of making clothes, you’ll want either plastic/glass head pins or dressmakers pins. It may also be handy to keep a few sizes of safety pin in your equipment, just in case. Pins shouldn’t be used if they’re blunt (snags the fabric) and they should be replaced if they are blunt.

Needles

Just like pins, you can get these in a variety of different lengths & thicknesses and again, they all have different purposes. I haven’t the faintest clue about needles, but a bit of googling allowed me to discover this post on Craft Stylish. That details some different types of hand sewing needles for those who want to know a bit more about them. You’ll want a selection of different hand sewing needles in your basket because they all have different purposes.

Now, for those who have a machine, you’ll want some machine needles. Again, some googling found another post of Craft Stylish which tells you about the workings of a machine needles. You’ll just want a set of bog standard needles (they come in assorted sizes for different weights of fabric) which fit in your machine for most sewing. It’s not until you’re advancing that you’ll want to think about things like twin needles (mostly machine embroider territory).

Just like with pins, never use a blunt needle!

Tape Measure

An absolute must! You will want a floppy tape measure (not the kind you get at DIY stores) which is flexible enough to wrap around your body. Mainly used for taking your measurements and other such things. If possible, get one which has both inches and centimetres on it, no matter which measurement you choose to work in (I can more or less work in either, but you may have a preference) because it’ll be more useful.

Scissors

Yet again, we enter a realm of many varieties of scissors. I’ll tell you a bit about the different varieties, but there are only really 3 types you need.

• Paper scissors – it’s rather puzzling why you need these when you first think about it; I mean, you’ll be cutting fabric & thread not paper surely?! Sadly not, you’ll be cutting out patterns! It’s absolutely vital that you get a pair of scissors (kitchen scissors will do) for cutting out your paper patterns because if you use your nice fabric scissors, you’ll make them blunt. And that would not be good when slicing fabric.
• Embroidery scissors – these are a very small variety of scissors specifically for intricate cutting. As the name suggests, these are mainly used for embroidery as the blades need to get into small threads/details on occasion. They can be useful, but really more so if you’re doing embroidery.
• Thread scissors – another variety of rather small scissor, but these are slightly larger than embroidery scissors. Mainly, these are used to trim loose threads or to cut small areas on the fabric (e.g. when cutting the little V shapes into a curved area… I’ll cover these at a later date) and a useful pair to have.
• Regular fabric scissors – the “normal sized” fabric scissors. These are used for cutting out an array of different types of fabrics. These are the kind of scissors most people will need because they are multi-purpose and will do the job.
• Dressmaking scissors – the big boys (or girls) as I like to call them. The difference between dressmaking scissors and regular scissors is the length. They are longer, which translates as more fabric cut in one sweep. The blades are also slightly wider, so they cut through more layers (I think).
• Pinking scissors – you remember those scissors when you were younger which made the edges of things triangular? Well, those would be pinking shears. They supposedly prevent your fabric from fraying at the edge thereby, I guess, eliminating the need to neaten edges. The problem with them is that, as soon as you wash your garment, the tips of the little triangles start to fray! Not good. So, as a rule, I tend to avoid using them and neaten my edges like a good girl. I do occasionally use them on things such as fabric samples, but for most of you, this isn’t something you’ll have to worry about.
• Rotary cutter – you know on shows like Project Catwalk, you see them literally rolling over a piece of fabric with a weird contraption (you may not notice of course) well, that is a rotary cutter. It’s basically a revolving blade which you roll along where you want to cut and it cuts. I do believe they are used in instances where you need to cut things accurately and fast (though cannot vouch for that because I’ve never used one). I suspect that they’re usually by designers or professional types (?) because simple home sewing (which I assume we’re doing) does not require one. Purl Bee does an excellent guide for maybe more experienced sewers who want to know how to use one, but it’s not something you really need to know about.

As I said before, the only 3 varieties you’ll really need are paper, small & either regular or dressmaking scissors. Everything else are really more things you may want at a later stage because you become interested in embroidery or something. Along with the types of scissors, the prices of scissors do vary. You may want to get a cheaper pair to start with, but it may be worth spending just that little bit more on a pair of good quality scissors which will last you for a long time (with careful care from you of course!). Ultimately, it is your choice, scissors are scissors, just make sure they are sharp to make your job easier.

Stitch Unpicker (or Seam Ripper)

Some people may argue that this could go in the next section of this post. I however think it belongs in essential! No matter how experienced you are at sewing, you are bound to make a mistake on occasion. And stitch unpickers are probably one of the handiest tools you can have around on such an occasion. Yes, you could use a pair of scissors to remove the incorrect stitching, but the downfall of doing that, is that you could accidentally cut a hole in your fabric! A seam ripper is smaller which allows you to get into the stitch & cut it basically. They are also exceptionally handy for opening up buttonholes. The Purl Bee did an excellent tutorial of how to use these nifty little tools.

Useful bits

These are things which maybe aren’t as essential, but still fairly vital & useful whilst sewing.

Thread

Threads come in an array of colours, types and weights. Now, it’s tempting when you first start out, to go for a cheap thread. But, if you want longevity of your item, you’ll want to choose a quality thread. My dressmaking teacher swears by natural cotton thread, which is actually rather difficult (though not impossible) to find because most is 100% polyester these days. As a rule of thumb, you’ll want the thread to be similar, if not the same, to what you fabric is. That way, the stitches will last just as long as your fabric will.

Personally, I opt to use Gutermann where possible (e.g. on this trench coat I am making presently), but I have used some multi-pack stuff my dad bought. I have noticed a difference because the multi-pack stuff always breaks off, whereas the gutermann stuff doesn’t tend to. Quality thread is more expensive, so it may be something you’ll want to think about later on. I tend to buy thread specifically for each project and always seem to have a basic black & white reel in my basket, but you may work differently to that. TIP: the thread should match the background colour of your fabric. For example, if you have a white fabric with turquoise polka-dots, the thread should be white.

For those hard-core enthusiasts who are interested in learning more about threads, there is a wonderful pdf which can be found on Label-Free [via Casey's Musings] which will tell you quite literally EVERYTHING you would ever need to know.

Tacking (or basting) thread

This could have fallen under the thread category, but I thought it’d be best to separate this. Tacking thread is basically a really cheap, thin thread which breaks easily. After my long ramble about getting quality thread you’ll be asking why you want this type of thread. Tacking thread is used specifically to hold pieces in place before you machine sew them. It’s used as a temporary join and is then removed to leave your permanent stitches in place. Trust me on this: you’ll more likely than not, end up hating tacking (I’ll detail this at a later stage), but it is an extremely useful step, especially for a beginner.

You’ll want to use something which contrasts with your fabric. For example, for white, you may want to use a mid blue, or for black, you may want a white tacking thread. As weird as this sounds, a darker colour thread is actually slightly thicker than a lighter coloured thread (or so I’ve been told) so that’s why I say mid blue for white. Ultimately though, as long as you can differentiate between the tacking thread, the final thread and the fabric, it doesn’t especially matter what colour it is.

Bobbins

The type of bobbin you’ll need will depend on your machine. Most machines these days take the standard round sewing machine bobbin, which are available in plastic or metal. My antique singer machine takes a funny kind of bobbin called a shuttle bobbin I think. Probably irrelevant because as I said, most modern machines take that standard bobbin, but just in case they don’t, check your instruction manual. You’ll need several bobbins in your stash for the various projects you undertake.

Thimbles

I’ll admit I don’t especially like using thimbles. I just can’t quite figure out how they are supposed to be used. The Purl Bee did another great tutorial on what they are & how they are meant to be used. Essentially, they are supposed to aid you whilst hand sewing because they prevent you from stabbing yourself repeatedly with the needle & help you to push the needle through the fabric (very useful if you have tough fabric or multiple layers). I know my dressmaking teacher said that if you know how to use them, they definitely speed up a job. But, you need one which fits you correctly. I suggest reading that purl bee article if you want to know more because I am fairly clueless about thimbles!

Tailor’s chalk

Or some kind of fabric marker is again a useful tool. I have some tailor’s chalk which I’ve not actually had to use it as yet, but loads of people find it very handy! It is useful for making temporary marks on fabric. Purl Bee (a useful resource it seems!) has great article on the different types of fabric markers and their uses.

Embellishments

Whether they are decorative or functional, stuff like ribbons, lace, buttons, velcro, snap fasteners, zips, buckles, wonder web, hooks & eyes etc all have a purpose. They may not be essential when you first start, but at some point, you will want them. You may just want to buy these things as and when you need them or you may become like me and keep a collection of buttons in a box…

Extra odds & ends

Things which aren’t vital, but they could help you a bit.

Basket or tool box

Something to store all your tools in. You may want to buy yourself (or request one as a birthday or Christmas gift?) a proper sewing basket in which to keep everything, or you may just want to get a tool box from somewhere like Homebase or B&Q (or the DIY store near you). The latter is a cheaper option may I add and you could always decorate & personalise it. I am fortunate enough to have family who sew, so I was able to nab their basket to use, but if I didn’t I think I would have just gone for the tool box option (or kept my eyes peeled whilst thrifting). Keeping your tools organised is useful in the long run, but how you keep it organised is up to you.

Pin cushion

Some people keep pins in the box they came in, whereas other like to use a pin cushion. You may like to use one (I do) or you may not, whatever works for you. Pin cushions can be bought or, you could try making one!

Hem measuring device

I have no clue what the official name for these things are, but they can be very useful on occasion. For example, when measuring the 1.5cm/⅝ inch seam allowance or when turning up a hem. They could be equally useful for knitters because they could help measure the gauge. Mine was from Hobbycraft. I have no idea where else sells them, but I’m sure you can find them somewhere.

Magnet

It could be handy to keep a small magnet in your sewing basket in case of a pin dropping emergency! It’s so difficult spotting dropped pins on the floor, especially if they do not have a head on them, so a magnet could become a lifeline.

* * *

Okay, that was probably the most overwhelming list ever (and I’ve probably missed something out) so you’re probably thinking “arrrghhh” now. Hopefully though, you are not thinking that and the depth of the post has aided you a little bit in getting together your equipment. The next Sewing Basics post will probably be on dissecting paper patterns. RSS subscribers will be the first to know when it’s posted.